IN TRANSIT; Resorts and Hotels Try Growing Organically
By Michelle Higgins
New York Times Sunday Travel Section
June 25, 2006
Ah, organics. We love 'em, and they're the fastest-growing trend in food today.
Organics are difficult to manage on the farms and in the fields, and as this is especially true with grapes, the wine business has been slow to come around. But every three months, when I look for organic wines to review, there are more and more labels available and from more countries.
So what is organic wine? Most wines in this category are produced from "organically grown grapes," but the processes of producing and bottling them might not be organic at all.
Then there's sulfur dioxide, or sulfites, which can affect the organic designation. It's commonly used as a preservative in dried fruit, is used to inhibit the growth of unwanted microorganisms and stops browning in wine. It also causes severe allergic reactions in some people, which led to legislation requiring labels to identify its presence in more than 10 parts per million.
Since it is also a natural byproduct of alcoholic fermentation (ranging from 10 to 40 ppm), just about every bottle of wine is labeled "Contains sulfites." Winemakers typically add sulfur dioxide during production and just as the cork goes in (to remove oxygen in the space between the wine and the cork).
Regular wines usually range from 100 to 150 ppm and can go as high as 350. By definition, a certified organic wine cannot exceed 100 ppm and usually averages about 40.
One step beyond organic practices, which include the avoidance of pesticides, chemical fertilizers and additives, is biodynamic farming. This system and practice of agriculture treats the farm as a sustainable ecosystem. It's a 360-degree look at the climate, the soil, indigenous animals, insects and support plants. These elements are taken into consideration when any planting is done.
In the recommendations below, NOP is the acronym for the National Organic Program, and CCOF stands for California Certified Organic Farmers. [Among those recommended:]
2004 Frey Biodynamic Zinfandel, Redwood Valley, Calif. ($16-$18)
Certified USDA Organic by the Demeter Association, sulfites are not added to this wine. The color is deep dark ruby with a purple hue. The aroma is a grippy, focused basket of dark red berries and blackberry juice. The aroma has a little cardamom and green peppercorn. The taste is juicy with a fine dry tannin structure, a good feel and very balanced. This is not a typical big, alcoholic, juicy Zin. It's tighter and leaner. I liked it and recommend it as a food Zinfandel or as a change from a Cabernet or red Bordeaux. 85-86 points.
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